Peeling the Layers – Research on the Evolution of Impermeable Coatings for Leather in Carriages
Emmeline Verheij
Master
Conservatie–restauratie
2024 — 2025
onderzoek
promotoren
Andrea Marchetti
Henri Cosemans
Heinrich Piening
Currier’s shop within a patent leather factory where the blackening (also known as sweetmeat) is being applied on the leather hides.
Framed, japanned hides being placed oven in a steampowered drying oven with the coated side downwards; the lacquer coats are fixed by stoving them at alternating temperatures.
Difference between the coating stratigraphy between that of a carriage hood (left) and that of a carriage mudguard (right); for suppleness, less coats are applied; for stiffness, more coats are applied.
Peeling the Layers – Research on the Evolution of Impermeable Coatings for Leather in Carriages
Through chemo-physical characterization on six carriages belonging to the KMKG-MRAH, Brussels, insight was gained on patent carriage leather. It was shown that the number of coats and and their japan composition get adjusted to the type of leather and their intended use, meaning the multifariousness of surface deformations is due to the sheer variety in chemical make-ups. Impairment of the leather’s expansion coefficient is also suspected.
Prior to the transition of the automobile, coachbuilding reached its peak during the nineteenth century with the many technological innovations and developments that were rapidly being booked – pushing established or emergent companies into making more fashionable and durable carriages than their competitors, be they out of the country or within. Special manual production techniques were kept secret to ensure no other carrosserie company was able to outdo the other. With the turn of the century, however, these close-guarded secrets faded over the next generations. One of them was patent leather; leather that has been rendered waterproof. While recorded in recipes, their credibility is put into question as disclosing misinformation was a common practice to throw off competition.
With special permission, six carriages belonging to the hippomobile collection of the KMKG-MRAH – each originating from a different decade, company, and country – are investigated by combining the study of historical sources (patents and manuals) with a careful optical inspection and chemo-physical characterization to gain insight into this understudied and otherwise unknown material. Research showed that European patent carriage leather is not just oleoresinous, but that the number of coats and and their composition get adjusted to the type of leather and their intended use. Thus, the multifariousness of patent leather deformations is attributed to the fact factories and tanneries had their own japan formulae, therefore the sheer variety in chemical make-ups. It is also suspected that surface deformations are caused if the leather’s expansion coefficient is being impaired.